ANGELS AND OTHER DEVILS

The city of Rome is heavily populated with angels: an entire army of them lines the Sant'Angelo bridge, the Archangel Michael looms atop the Castel Sant'Angelo in all his heavy bronziness, and just try to find a church in Rome sans at least one of the winged beings.

Now, finding a little devil here in the Eternal City- that's not so easy.

But I discovered one I think you're going to like. Right off Campo de Fiori, down Via Cappellari (where Donna Vanuzza, mistress of Pope Alexander VI and mother of the much maligned Lucrezia Borgia once lived) is Taverna Lucifero. The decor is early cave, the atmosphere lively, the menu is Piemontese, and the signature cheese fonduta (fondue to most of us) laced with generous shavings of truffle (either white or black depending on the season) is - ok - it's heavenly. Along with other fondue options are wonderful grilled and roasted meats and vegetables. The food and incredibly extensive wine list are both well below what you would expect from such quality.

But there's more! On a parallel street after you round the corner of the

Forno Campo de Fiori http://www.fornocampodefiori.com/main.php

and walk down Via del Pelligrino, Francesco, the owner of Taverna Lucifero, just opened La Cantina di Lucifero, a little bit of paradise for wine lovers.

Angels are nice, but sometimes it's alright to cavort with the devil.

Taverna Lucifero

Via dei Cappellari, 28

Phone 06 688 055 36

Open every evening

http://www.tavernalucifero.it/home.htm

La Cantina di Lucifero

Via del Pelligrino, 53