Saturday, September 27, 2008

CAESAR'S MUSHROOMS



Outside of Rome at this time of year, the hills are alive with an abundance of fungi, porcini and the less familiar ovoli. Referred to in English as Caesar's mushrooms because they were favored above all others by the rulers of ancient Rome, these orangish to straw-colored mushrooms with a white underside and stem are more delicate in flavor than porcini.






Inside the gates of Rome, restaurants offer a salad (can we call it a "Caesar Salad"?) of sliced ovoli, diced celery, shaved parmigiano reggiano, dressed only with extra virgin olive oil. And that's what I ate last night on a beautiful ottobrata (the last gasp of summer) evening in Rome. Superbus!

Thursday, March 27, 2008

BURRATA: It's Like Buttah

Hunting down great places to eat is what I do in Rome, but there are times when I need to grab a quick lunch or snack to enjoy on my terrace with the resident gabbiani (sea gulls) who think nothing of perching on the ledge and staring at me like vultures waiting for the remains.

The combination of two items right outside my front door in Campo de' Fiori, a warm slice of thin crust lightly tomato-ed pizza from the famed Forno Campo de' Fiori and a miniature burrata (burratini) from the adjacent latteria (a store that sells primarily dairy products), and those birds were salivating.

Burrata is a cow's milk mozzarella-like cheese from Puglia.  Shaped like a little bag, the treasure cache is its center filled with strings of the curd and leftover cream from the whey.  The Italian word for butter is burro, hence burrata.)

When it's cut into, the center reveals a buttery spread-able ooze that covers my pizza like a warm embrace.  My "invention" is not the classic use of burrata, if there is such a thing.  In Italy, it's most often served  nudo, standing alone and unadorned, or as a filling for ravioli as I had at the justly famous Rome restaurant Agata e Romeo. 

Of course, here in the States burrata begs being substituted for mozzarella in a caprese.  About the only "rule" that's immutable is it must be eaten as quickly as possible after production - to purists that would be within 36 hours.  It is possible to find  burrata outside of Italy.  I recently bought it in eastern Pennsylvania and it was fresh and delectable.  And to me, better than buttah.


Friday, February 1, 2008

SUSHI ROMAN STYLE


Sushi Platter at Riccioli Cafe

If you're curious about what an oyster martini would taste like --and who wouldn't be?--and you find yourself in Rome yearning for your favorite sushi bar back home, head to Massimo Riccioli's new wine bar and casual dining spot called Riccioli Cafe. It's  trendy and relaxed  and you can order lunch or appetizers knowing that the seafood has been selected by the owner himself from the same source and with the same care as for his all seafood restaurant extraordinaire,  La Rosetta.

Riccioli Cafe, Via delle Coppelle, 13, Rome
www.ricciolicafe.com

Friday, January 18, 2008

ORANGE & FENNEL SALAD




INSALATA DI FINOCCHIO E ARANCIA





My latest Flavors of Rome email newsletter created a run on fennel and blood oranges.  I received so many positive comments from this most simple of recipes that I've decided to repeat it here for the benefit of the blog world.  I'm always complaining that I can't find the same ingredients here in the States that are so readily available in Italy, but here's one of the exceptions.

And it couldn't be easier.   Quantities listed below are arbitrary; adjust according to taste and number of desired servings.

INSALATA DI FINOCCHIO & ARANCIA

3 - 4 blood (or other) oranges, peeled and cut into bite size pieces
2 - 3 medium fennel bulbs, remove outer layers and cut inner part into small slices
3 tablespoons good quality extra virgin olive oil
juice of 1/2 lemon
handful of black olives, oil cured or other
coarse sea salt, to taste

BUON APPETITO!