So what do you do after a private nighttime tour of the Vatican where it was only your group of 20 and the Vatican guards? You don't want the evening to end, but it's too late for dinner and you don't want to break the mood with the sound of music in a club. In Rome, you head for your favorite wine bar.
L'Angolo Divino, Via dei Balestrari, 12 (Campo de Fiori) is that place where Massimo, the always in attendance owner and sommelier, knows just what to pour.
And so we sat and relived it all: the Sistine Chapel sans the tourist crush, Raffaelo's School of Athens, the Laocoon, the Room of Muses, the incredibe Hall of Tapestries, the Belvedere Torso that inspired Michelangelo - all seen as though for the first time.
Our glasses were finally empty, but the memory lingers on.
he memories linger on.
Thursday, April 22, 2010
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
TOP TEN FAVORITE THINGS IN ROME
We're talking vegetables, of course. Very important to the Romans, and it should be to you as well if you're traveling there. Along with Caravaggio at the Quirinale, Bernini in Piazza Navona, Michelangelo at St. Peter's, nature's artwork, always on display in the Roman markets, belongs on your must-see list.
And what to look for? According to Chris Boswell, sous chef at the prestigious American Academy currently engaged in the Rome Sustainable Food Project, the Top Ten Roman Vegetables are:
1) Carciofi—Artichokes
And what to look for? According to Chris Boswell, sous chef at the prestigious American Academy currently engaged in the Rome Sustainable Food Project, the Top Ten Roman Vegetables are:
1) Carciofi—Artichokes
2) Puntarelle—Catalan Chicory
3) Finocchi—Fennel
4) Funghi Porcini—Porcini Mushrooms
5) Broccoletti—Broccoli
6) Fave—Fava Beans
7) Cardi—Cardoons
8) Rughetta—Arugula
9) Sedano—Celery
10)Asparagi Selvatici—Wild Aspargus
Enjoy them at their seasonal best at your leisure in all their splendid variations in the market stalls and on your plate.
Tuesday, March 16, 2010
SALTIMBOCCA ALLA ROMANA: A Composition of 3 Ingredients
OK, so I was all snarky about Mario Batali on the Today Show doing a segment called Saltimbocca Alla Romana and then preparing 3 dishes that weren't. So here's the classic dish as it's been served all over Rome for decades, a simple composition of 3 main ingredients: veal, prosciutto, and sage. (One example of the Flavors of Rome.) Besides that you need butter, a little white wine, and toothpicks.
I learned how to make this dish in all its beautiful simplicity many years ago at the Pepe Verde Cooking School near the Pantheon in Rome. Of course, the challenge is finding top quality veal and proscuitto as well as fresh sturdy sage leaves. The toothpicks should be a snap.
I learned how to make this dish in all its beautiful simplicity many years ago at the Pepe Verde Cooking School near the Pantheon in Rome. Of course, the challenge is finding top quality veal and proscuitto as well as fresh sturdy sage leaves. The toothpicks should be a snap.
Saltimbocca Alla Romana
Veal Scallops with Prosciutto and Sage
A classic Roman recipe, molto semplice, from Scuola di Cucina Pepe Verde, Rome.
Ingredients:
12 veal scallops (about 1 1/2 pounds), sliced thin and pounded (not paper thin however)
12 slices thin prosciutto slices, trimmed a bit shorter in length than veal scallops
12 fresh sage leaves
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 dry white wine
Salt and pepper to taste
Compose veal bundles by laying a slice of prosciutto on top of each veal scallop, then top with sage leaf, and secure with a toothpick.
Melt butter in large non-stick skillet.
On high heat, place veal bundles sage side down for one minute and then turn on the other side for another minute.
Season with salt (unless prosciutto is salty) and pepper.
Lower heat to medium and cook until veal is lightly golden brown, about 4 minutes.
Raise heat and add wine, scraping bottom and sides of pan, for about another minute.
Serves 6
Monday, March 8, 2010
ROMAN ARTICHOKES AS INSPIRATION
Robert Browning probably never made it to Rome in March during all his years living in Italy. If he had, he would surely have eaten a Roman artichoke and then, forgetting all about England in springtime, would have written "Oh to be in Rome now that artichoke season is here."
I, on the other hand, have been in Rome for every artichoke season since 1996 - except for this year. I'm not happy, but I'm dealing with it. And hoping some late bloomers will still be around in April
My friends have been speculating for years as to why I go to Rome every March. Maybe I've been rendezvousing with a mysterious Italian lover (they'd be sick with jealousy), sneaking off to experience the rejuvenation powers of a thermal spa (they'd be jealous of this, too), or maybe reaffirming my faith at a Vatican-sponsored religious retreat (they'd probably question this one)? Love does play a role here, and I certainly do get a physical and spiritual boost, but the object of my passion happens to spring from the rich, humid earth of the Roman countryside. I go to Rome every March because artichokes are in season.
And a Roman artichoke, unlike a lover, never disappoints.
For more, including recipes...
I, on the other hand, have been in Rome for every artichoke season since 1996 - except for this year. I'm not happy, but I'm dealing with it. And hoping some late bloomers will still be around in April
My friends have been speculating for years as to why I go to Rome every March. Maybe I've been rendezvousing with a mysterious Italian lover (they'd be sick with jealousy), sneaking off to experience the rejuvenation powers of a thermal spa (they'd be jealous of this, too), or maybe reaffirming my faith at a Vatican-sponsored religious retreat (they'd probably question this one)? Love does play a role here, and I certainly do get a physical and spiritual boost, but the object of my passion happens to spring from the rich, humid earth of the Roman countryside. I go to Rome every March because artichokes are in season.
And a Roman artichoke, unlike a lover, never disappoints.
For more, including recipes...
Sunday, February 21, 2010
ABOUT PASTA ALLA NORMA - MOSTLY
Romans aren't particularly crazy about change.

They've never quite gotten over architect Richard Meier's design for the Ara Pacis (the 13AD altar commemorating the triumphs of the Emperor Augustus), a contemporary intruder boldly positioned in the middle of Old Rome.

And after more than 15 years, many Romans haven't yet warmed up to the transformation of the "newly" cleaned and brilliantly revealed Michelangelo's Last Judgment in the Sistine Chapel.
There was something comforting and familiar about those old murky colors with everyone writhing in hell.
So it follows that Romans are fiercely attached to their classic recipes and don't want you fooling around with things.
Pasta alla Norma is not of Roman origin. But Romans have lovingly adopted it from its Sicilian roots, maybe because this dish makes such nice use of their full-flavored basil and their beloved multicolored eggplants.
Like Roman cuisine in general, pasta alla Norma is bold and lively, much like the indomitable plucky heroine of Bellini's opera Norma for which, some say, it was created. (Other theories are floating around on this subject. If you have one, let's talk about it)
Please keep in mind the first rule of Italian cooking: Use only the freshest and highest quality ingredients. If the eggplant is spongy and brownish inside, if the basil is limp and lacks flavor, if your bottle of olive oil costs $1.98, go buy a steak and throw it on the grill instead.
But if you follow this primary rule along with Daniela Del Balzo's recipe (it's a simple dish, but you still have to have a plan), the result will be spettacoloso. You can read about Daniela and her cooking school in Rome at AstheItaliansCook.
2 eggplants, cut into 1/2 inch cubes (about 2 cups cubed)
2 - 3 tablespoons Canola oil, or Canola oil spray, for frying eggplant
2 tablespoons (30 ml) extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed with back of knife
2 cups fresh plum tomatoes, peeled, and roughly chopped or small can (14.5 oz)San Marzano tomatoes, drained and chopped
1- 3 tablespoons tomato puree (called passata in Italy)
2 - 4 tablespoons ricotta salata, grated
1/4 cup fresh basil leaves, chopped
Salt and pepper
1 #rigatoni
Place large pot of water on stove to boil.
Place the eggplant slices on a plate or other flat smooth surface, sprinkle with coarse salt and let set for 30 minutes to remove the bitterness. Wash slices under cold water, dry well with paper towels.
In large non-stick frying pan, heat oil and fry eggplant on both sides until golden brown. (Turn heat to medium low after oil has heated to prevent burning.) Remove slices and let rest on paper towels.
To frying pan, add 2 tablespoons olive oil and the crushed garlic for about 2 minutes (do not let burn). Then add chopped tomatoes, tomato puree, and pinch of salt and pepper. Saute for 15 - 20 minutes or until the sauce reduces slightly. Add eggplant and chopped basil. Cook and stir over medium heat until eggplant softens.
To boiling pot of water, add liberal amount of salt and rigatoni.
Cook rigatoni until al dente and drain.
Add rigatoni to sauce and mix well.
Place in individual serving bowls and top with grated ricotta salata and additional whole basil leaves if desired.
Serves 6.
Buon Appetito!

They've never quite gotten over architect Richard Meier's design for the Ara Pacis (the 13AD altar commemorating the triumphs of the Emperor Augustus), a contemporary intruder boldly positioned in the middle of Old Rome.

And after more than 15 years, many Romans haven't yet warmed up to the transformation of the "newly" cleaned and brilliantly revealed Michelangelo's Last Judgment in the Sistine Chapel.
There was something comforting and familiar about those old murky colors with everyone writhing in hell.
So it follows that Romans are fiercely attached to their classic recipes and don't want you fooling around with things.
Pasta alla Norma is not of Roman origin. But Romans have lovingly adopted it from its Sicilian roots, maybe because this dish makes such nice use of their full-flavored basil and their beloved multicolored eggplants. Like Roman cuisine in general, pasta alla Norma is bold and lively, much like the indomitable plucky heroine of Bellini's opera Norma for which, some say, it was created. (Other theories are floating around on this subject. If you have one, let's talk about it)
Please keep in mind the first rule of Italian cooking: Use only the freshest and highest quality ingredients. If the eggplant is spongy and brownish inside, if the basil is limp and lacks flavor, if your bottle of olive oil costs $1.98, go buy a steak and throw it on the grill instead.
But if you follow this primary rule along with Daniela Del Balzo's recipe (it's a simple dish, but you still have to have a plan), the result will be spettacoloso. You can read about Daniela and her cooking school in Rome at AstheItaliansCook.
PASTA ALLA NORMA


2 eggplants, cut into 1/2 inch cubes (about 2 cups cubed)
2 - 3 tablespoons Canola oil, or Canola oil spray, for frying eggplant
2 tablespoons (30 ml) extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed with back of knife
2 cups fresh plum tomatoes, peeled, and roughly chopped or small can (14.5 oz)San Marzano tomatoes, drained and chopped
1- 3 tablespoons tomato puree (called passata in Italy)
2 - 4 tablespoons ricotta salata, grated
1/4 cup fresh basil leaves, chopped
Salt and pepper
1 #rigatoni
Place large pot of water on stove to boil.
Place the eggplant slices on a plate or other flat smooth surface, sprinkle with coarse salt and let set for 30 minutes to remove the bitterness. Wash slices under cold water, dry well with paper towels.
In large non-stick frying pan, heat oil and fry eggplant on both sides until golden brown. (Turn heat to medium low after oil has heated to prevent burning.) Remove slices and let rest on paper towels.
To frying pan, add 2 tablespoons olive oil and the crushed garlic for about 2 minutes (do not let burn). Then add chopped tomatoes, tomato puree, and pinch of salt and pepper. Saute for 15 - 20 minutes or until the sauce reduces slightly. Add eggplant and chopped basil. Cook and stir over medium heat until eggplant softens.
To boiling pot of water, add liberal amount of salt and rigatoni.
Cook rigatoni until al dente and drain.
Add rigatoni to sauce and mix well.
Place in individual serving bowls and top with grated ricotta salata and additional whole basil leaves if desired.
Serves 6.
Buon Appetito!
Tuesday, February 9, 2010
THE SPAGHETTI SPOON: Or the Art Of The Twirl
In most of the utensil using world, grown men and women with no apparent physical limitations approach plates of spaghetti, fettuccine, and other long pastas with fork in one hand, large spoon in the other.
In Italy, only small children and those challenged by small motor skills would place a spoon in opposition to the twirl of the fork. I've queried many of my Roman, Milanese, and Calabrian friends on the subject. They all concur that it's sort of like training wheels on a bicycle: once the child - or determined adult -gets the hang of snagging the right amount of pasta along with the required number of rotations, it's time to drop the spoon and go solo with the fork.
If this just doesn't work for you, then better to ask for a spoon that to use the knife to cut your spaghetti into little bite-size pieces, a serious infraction of Italian culinary laws at any age.
In Italy, only small children and those challenged by small motor skills would place a spoon in opposition to the twirl of the fork. I've queried many of my Roman, Milanese, and Calabrian friends on the subject. They all concur that it's sort of like training wheels on a bicycle: once the child - or determined adult -gets the hang of snagging the right amount of pasta along with the required number of rotations, it's time to drop the spoon and go solo with the fork.
If this just doesn't work for you, then better to ask for a spoon that to use the knife to cut your spaghetti into little bite-size pieces, a serious infraction of Italian culinary laws at any age.
Friday, February 5, 2010
CARNEVALE IN ROME: Feasting on Frappe
Rome loves a party. And this year, Carnevale in Rome -- though not approaching the decadence, debauchery, and downright tomfoolery that took place during the pagan forerunners of this Christianized celebration -- has been pumped up with various forms of street revelry, most notably this Saturday's parade of costumed Romans on horses and chariots following the ancient route down Via del Corso.
So what will everyone be munching on during these festivities? Not popcorn, not soft salted pretzels, not Buffalo wings on a stick. The traditional "you can't eat just one" Carnevale treats in Rome are frappe, fried ribbons of dough copiously dusted with powdered sugar, temptingly displayed in every pastry shop window - and, oh, so easy to love.
But it doesn't stop there. You didn't think Italian creativity was restricted to just sculptures and paintings, did you? Take a look at one small example of what some very artistic pastry chefs can do.
One of the many reasons my heart belongs to a very old city.
So what will everyone be munching on during these festivities? Not popcorn, not soft salted pretzels, not Buffalo wings on a stick. The traditional "you can't eat just one" Carnevale treats in Rome are frappe, fried ribbons of dough copiously dusted with powdered sugar, temptingly displayed in every pastry shop window - and, oh, so easy to love.
But it doesn't stop there. You didn't think Italian creativity was restricted to just sculptures and paintings, did you? Take a look at one small example of what some very artistic pastry chefs can do.
One of the many reasons my heart belongs to a very old city.
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